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Saturday, January 9, 2010

Kayaking the Barron Gorge, Barron River, North Queensland, Australia

Kayaking The Barron Gorge, North Queensland, Australia

White water Rafting is known for the adrenaline rush all over the world. However, kayaking in whitewater provides in my mind a bigger rush....and a more self satisfying one.

The Barron Gorge is noted for the Whitewater Rafting activities done just about 365 days a year. However, most of those days, the Cairns Kayaking fraternity also paddles the gorge at the same amount of paddling time with obviously more fun to be had.

Water is released from the Hydro Station at the top of the accessible gorge at various amounts. It is of this intrepid adventurer's experience of only paddling this stretch of river at 15 or 30 megalitres release. The Cairns Kayaking Crew are very, very expert paddlers, and paddle the gorge at 80 to 100 meg sometimes. 30 Meg appears to them as being a low level, and 15 is almost barren ! However, for novice kayakers like myself and the crew that paddle with me, generally 30 meg is more than enough.

Water is generally released at various times but most usually at lunchtime going through to about 5.30pm.

It is a tribute to Blakey, Dom, Riley, Glenn, Kristian, Rod, and the rest that they always lend a helping hand and words of wisdom for paddling the Gorge and I cannot thank them enough.



The "Drop In" point at the hydro station is a very scenic area, and provides the tourist of insight into the Tropical Rainforest in which surrounds the Gorge. It also provides a safe and easy access for the novice paddler to get in and warm up the muscles for the daunting stretch of river that awaits them.


It enables first time paddlers to get used to the kayak and the water flows of the day.

The Barron Gorge is rated at a Grade 3 to 4 Class River. Grade 3 means that there may be some turns required mid-rapid, compared to the Grade 2 of the Mulgrave River in which the rapids flow through fairly evenly.

Generally, it is understood that the more water released could increase the grade of the river. The time taken for the expert kayakers to traverse the gorge would generally be in the whereabouts of about 2 hours. However, in comparison, our novice paddlers would take close to 3 hours due to various portages that need to be undertaken for the level of our skills.

1. "Piece of Nuthin" Rapid (Grade 2) is just a flow through and a slight smooth rapid to allow you to get used to how much positive paddling you will require for the day. Positive Paddling is the amount of forward power paddle strokes and Sweep stroke manouvres that you will need to ascertain the strength of the water flow





2. The "Face Wash" Rapid (grade 3) gives a good account of what can be expected over the afternoon. This gnarly little lead-up requires you to miss a couple of sizeable boulders that peak out of the water, and you are to make a hasty right hand turn when required to land in a nice flush out basin. In 30 meg, there is a small chicken shute that can be undertaken on extreme river left. You would need to bounce over some hidden rocks and keep your balance to enable you to get into the basin below.


3. "Pyramid Pass" (Grade 3) is to me, the epitome of the gorge. This drop of a metre and a half, empties into a sizeable boil, and flushes out into a large and wide basin. In that basin, there is only one large rock under water which is about 30 metres from the drop. This is an ideal rapid to enhance your brace strokes and if you can do it, your roll.




4a. The "Butchers Knife" Rapid (grade 3) rates as my first personal nemesis. This stretch of rapids encompass a few flow throughs at the start which are very enjoyable. This gives you a decent practice of utilising your "break out" or "eddy out" skills.

It also gives you chances to take your time through the rapid and enables you to have a look at the next part of the rapid.



4b. The hole in this photo does give you a bit of a grab once you are most of the way through and I have seen a couple of partial tailstands for this rapid





4c. The final part of the rapid is a challenging decision. On the one hand, depending on the water level, for 15 megs you can take a path to river right in which you have to avoid a dissecting rock which decides the path of the river, you can then take river right and this places you in a path to drop of a metre and a half over a large rock and empties into yet another basin.

For 30 meg however, it is wise to run the small shutes on river left to final empty out into yet another large pool.


5. The "Kitchen Sink" Rapid (Grade 2) proves to be a straight through run with the target being a shute between two large rocks of about a metre and a half wide. It does contain small eddy swirls at the bottom of the rapid to catch you if you are unaware.





At various viewing points, this rapid actually seems harder than what it actually is.






6. The "Maze" Rapid provides the chance for the novice paddler who cannot roll, or does not have the confidence for a following Grade 4 rapid, to portage out on river left. The Maze is a place where, if you actually come out, it can lead to a nasty experience for the lead up to the "Roosters Tail".

This portage around Roosters is about 150 metres clambering over rocks and ledges and must be undertaken slowly and safely


7. The "Roosters Tail" rapid (Grade 4) is the flagship rapid for the Barron Gorge. You need to be very certain of your skills and confidence to undertake this rapid.

To paddle this challenge, you need to take a line of extreme right to get into the proper flow and river left lands you onto some very unkind rocks and boulders.

I myself, choose to portage this rapid at the moment...health before valour !

8. The "Rock Garden" Rapid (grade 3) after the portage supplies a cooling down after the heat of the walk with the kayak over the hot gorge rocks. This gnarly piece of river changes it's appearance depending on the river level. It is a pure decision for the paddler to portage past this rapid. However, if you do choose to run it, you need to enter into the water flow and get your paddling up very, very fast. Once you bounce over these rocks, it again flushes out to a small basin and you can eddy out into various amounts of safe spots.


This rapid is starting to more represent another of my nemeses as to my confidence of engaging 30 meg, has presented a rough ride on the posterior....away from the boat.







9. The "S-Bends" Rapid (Grade 3) lightens the challenge a little as to by now, the novice paddler is more adept at selecting possible eddy spots






Of course, just about after each rapid, there is the easy paddle of flatwater....so as you can take a break from the crunching. A lot of photo opportunities can be taken during this time to see the Natural Beauty of the Gorge.




10. The "Tunnell of Love" Rapid (Grade 3) is another rapid where you have to make a definate decision to paddle river left or river right. The river actually pounds into an imposing rock and the flow actually takes you towards this rock. What the crew have found is it depends on the water level as usual. If it is a 30 meg release, the best option is to go river right, if it is a 15 meg release, then river left might be your option. Behind the actual left turn, the river chops and presents a number of standing waves that may catch you unaware. With the right, you would need to catch a couple of quick turns and boof the kayak over a rocky ledge.










11. The "Cheese Churner" Rapid (Grade 3) is another for a portage for our crew to bypass. The Churn has an imposing rock under the first drop on river left which has a small overhang of which you do not want to get caught under. From passing that rock, you need to make a switch to river right to boof over. If you take the left shute, unfortunately you would place a few dents into the bottom of the kayak as there are a few immovable rocks just waiting to catch the unaware. If you have fallen out over this side, you may need a new dental plan.



The gun kayakers absolutely love the churn to play in.







12. The "Mother-inLaw" Rapid (grade 3) so named as that once she gets hold of you....she doesn't let go ! The Mother is a reticulating rapid in which once you go over the small drop with a descending angle, you need to lift the kayak and boof if you can and paddle hard right through the rapid. With a reticulating rapid, the water works back on itself and ensnares you for a small minute of your time. Larger water would represent a danger for novice paddlers. There is a line on the extreme river right for this drop in which you can boof into a small eddy.
The guns use this rapid to practise their playboating skills such as bow and tail stands, spins, and usual kayak surfing.


Nearly home....

13. "Hells Gate" (Grade 3) is a playground of numerous rapids forming into one large train of turns.


This is the place for a novice kayaker to play in as it has different skills to be used for different lines, different breaking out techniques, and practice for your bow draw.
For absolute beginners, this is an ideal place verging on the flatwater of Lake Placid, to enable the kayaker to understand about river flows and river dynamics.


Hells Gate represents the end of the flowing water journey. The avid novice kayaker has made the jump to a level up in completing the new level of kayaking.

Obviously, beginners and novices are relieved to get to the ease of the flatwater, and thus enjoy the pleasurable cruise back up the Lake



Lake Placid is the budding playground of the kayaker offering spectacular views of the gorge. At the end of the day though, a headwind usually ensures you a hard journey back to dry land.

At the end of the journey, Lake Placid usually offers a chance for a cold ale; or a hot coffee; and a laugh to ensure the memories of the trip stays vivid and the humour begins.

Remember , when paddling the fabulous natural watercourses of this great country, please do not leave anything except footprints in the sand, and take nothing away but for photos and memories...

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